Any lady knows that skincare is a crucial part of her beauty routine, but backstage at Fashion Week it’s a step that’s often forgotten about or passed over. But not at the Erin Fetherston Fall 2014 presentation where no detail is left undone. With a “charm school” theme, it’s only fitting that all steps be taken so that the ladies wearing the collection can feel and look like ladies. Skincare brand Skyn Iceland is at the ready with on-the-go Skyn Iceland Glacial Cleansing Cloths to wipe away any makeup, dirt or oils the models may have on their skin when they arrive. “We’ve been using them backstage for years,” shares Global Director of Sales Heather Scarpato. “They easily remove waterproof mascara or bold red lips and they don’t need to be rinsed off—there’s a lot of juice in there!” Next, Skyn Iceland Hydro Cool Firming Eye Gels tone and de-puff the under-eye area, and Skyn Iceland Icelandic Relief Eye Cream works to decrease dark circles and brighten eyes. And while it almost sounds like a relaxing ladies’ day at the spa, this regime in reality will be a boon to the makeup. “The eye cream has the ability to be mixed with almost any under-eye concealer so makeup artists really, really love it—there’s no bunching or pulling,” says Scarpato. As for the final touch, once the models are primped with makeup, they’re spritzed and set with Skyn Iceland Arctic Face Mist.
With a dramatic cat eye and all else on the face subdued, the sweet yet sexy makeup design stems from a modern-day take on 60s siren Bridget Bardot. “We want the eyes to be the focus,” explains Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics lead makeup artist Lottie Stannard. “We’re pulling the eyes up with a wing and then adding a little half-lash at the end to give it a little more kick and extra volume. And we’re only applying mascara to the top to keep the eyes up and flirty.” And flirty they are. OCC Crème Color Concentrate in John Doe is placed in the crease of the lid to create a natural shadow while a mix of OCC Crème Colour Concentrate in Bauhaus and OCC Pure Cosmetic Pigments in Black line the eye to give it that sensuous pop. The lip and cheek deliver the innocence and femininity of the lady-like look. Stannard dabs peachy-rose OCC Lip Tar in Lament (coming out this fall) with fingers to create a soft, subtle stain on the lip and brushes OCC Crème Colour Concentrate in Newt on the cheekbones to give them a peachy, pink flush.
The preppy, prim modern-day Bardot theme shines in the hair too. “It’s all about creating volume at the crown and a swoop bang that’s not so low that it’s too sexy and seductive,” shares Salon Grafix lead stylist Brian Hawkins. “We’re doing it right at the arch so the eye is still exposed—so it’s still playful, feminine and fun.” Hawkins uses Olivia Garden’s Divine Wet Detangler DV-1, NanoThermic Thermal and NanoThermic Paddle to brush through the model’s tresses and sprays Salon Graphix Play It Big Touchable Hairspray and backcombs (and sprays and backcombs, and does it again!) to get that 60s volume at the crown. Longer locks are then set in a low ponytail (or left down for those with shorter hair) and finished with Salon Grafix Play It Big Shaping Spray.
Fun, flirty and chic nails complete the look. Kiss Products lead nail artist Miss Pop first applies two coats of a blush-pink Ruby Kisses polish to Kiss 100-Count Nail Covers in Active Oval, and then refines the half moon (a nail art trend started by flappers) by painting a mini-moon using Kiss Nail Artists Paint in either White or Black on all nails except the ring fingers. “We want to refine the flappers the way charm school would so we’re creating an elegant twist on the half-moon,” shares Miss Pop. Finally, the monogrammed initial of E (for Erin, of course!) is delicately drawn in cursive on the ring fingers. “It makes me think of my school days when I used to have a sweater with my initial on it, and that’s what this is about—charm school. Of course, I don’t know if I was as well-behaved as I think Erin Fetherston is!” she laughs. Some things are best left to the imagination … a lady never tells! —Molly Church
[Photos courtesy of KISS Products; Olivia Garden]